From the rooftop terrace, you watch the evening twilight envelop Rome in a golden haze. Palaces, towers, cupolas, monuments — they all seem a vision in a dream. Yet all else is very real: the home-made snacks, the cocktail, and your hostess, who is a member of Roman aristocracy.

You will ask her about her family history; about the Whites and the Blacks; about the Republic and what became of noble families after it.

And as the night falls, you may find yourself wishing that the past could return.