With traditional and inimitable technique, the colourful molten glass is blown, molded, twisted. How lovely they are, vases, plates, cups, figures — the myriad glass objects you see in Murano. And more lovely still because now you have seen how much care and work went into making them.

From there, your private boat takes you to Burano. Here you discover houses painted in gay colours, and delicious seafood.

Then, Torcello. The thousand year-old church is a perfection of Venetian-Byzantine beauty: simple stone, golden mosaics. 

If you can, linger until after the last boat has left. In the evening twilight, the island is empty and hushed and full of comforting mystery.