Scorched sandstone greets you in Bagan, a plateau of Buddhist peaks rising above the southern banks of the Irrawaddy. 

Thousands of pagodas and shrines spill out in every direction. At first it’s baffling, such religious abundance punctuated by the odd lonely palm. Even after a full day exploring you will struggle to make sense of Bagan’s scale, how so many exquisite structures have been isolated by time. 

There are literally thousands and visiting them all would take the best part of a year.

It’s destinations like Bagan that illustrate the importance of a good local guide. You will sidestep the tour buses and explore the most famous pagodas when they are quiet. Meeting monks you will savour the spirituality that permeates through walls. 

Fables and fictions accompany each structure, sometimes told through the monks you meet. Most of the pagodas don’t have names, only numbers, yet their craftsmanship is masterful. 

And as sunset arrives you will not stand on a famous “sunset” temple. You will be virtually alone on a 12th century masterpiece with an incredible view over the dusty plains.